I’ve written about Morocco several times but never about the activities I did there, the people, and the culture. Morocco was my first Islāmic country to visit and the striking difference of culture and people were clear on the plane over. I went to the most tourist friendly city in Morocco, Marrakesh.
If you’ve ever seen Sex and the City 2 than you will know that the airport in the movie is said to be in Abu Dhabi is actually the airport in Marrakesh. It’s a beautiful design, and surprisingly modern for such a mostly un-modern city. Walking outside the airport with the group I was traveling with, we met a Moroccan family that one of our travel members knew from her time in Marrakesh before.
My first thoughts stepping in the parking lot at the airport, this city feels like Las Vegas. The weather was that lovely dry, cool morning desert weather. The streets were clean and lined with beautiful flowers and trees. We all crowded in a car and headed into the city towards where the everyday person from Marrakesh lives.
The neighborhood where our host lives is charming and typically Moroccan. The space inside is even better with typical Moroccan designs and architecture. For me this was the real treat, to see how an everyday Moroccan lived at their home. As a boy, with all girls, I received my room. Men and women are usually separated and the mom of the house had to veil her head every time in my presence, part of Islāmic Religion.
It should be said that Moroccans are one of the most liberal Muslim countries though. Not all women want to or have to wear a veil, women can drive, and alcohol can be served in restaurants and tourist areas. However in western views, Morocco still falls far behind in terms of homosexuality, sexism towards women, public display of affection and much more.
But you do as the locals because we are guests in the country and we don’t judge. As a gay man I was a little nervous flying over but my fears were erased once I realized that nobody cared. If I had made myself known and done gay sexual acts with a Moroccan knowing about, then I would have probably been in trouble.
One of the things I noticed though, was that everywhere our group went the car with the only guy, me; the taxi driver always charged and quoted less. The same type of thing happened at the souks, or traditional Moroccan shops, where the men of the shops would bargain with me more than the women.
One of the first stops was the Majorelle Gardens, a renowned garden and a typical tourist spot. However it’s worth the little Moroccan dirham you’ll pay. The gardens were built by a French artist named Louis Majorelle, who lived in Morocco during the 20’s and 30’s, when Morocco was a French colony.
What really stands out is the famous deep blues and the contrasting colors on the flower pots. The gardens have fountains, including a big central fountain, Moroccan design elements mixed with Oriental colors, 15 bird species native to North Africa, and many types of cactus. A light rain rolled through while we toured the gardens, making the plants lush and the surrounding colors pop. It’s beautiful.
And ironically enough, the gardens were owned by famous gay fashion designer Yves Saint-Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé, in a relatively homophobic country. Yves Saint-Laurent ashes were spread there when he died in 2008 and there is plaque commemorating both of them. For me, that’s a unique status for two gay men in country like Morocco.
By the way, if you speak French, it’s going to help you in Morocco. Because of its history with France, most Moroccans can speak French and Arabic (and some English), but everyday bartering and life is mostly in French with tourists. Obviously Arabic would help but I heard it’s very different from Arabic spoken in the Middle East.
Heading into the night, in Marrakesh the place to be is at the Jemaa el-Fnaa. Music fills the area, women walk around in veils and burkas. There are snake charmers, spice sellers, food for sale, story-tellers and countless back alleys selling anything under the sun. It truly is a unique place to be a part of. We went there to first visit the mosque across the street (Koutoubia Mosque), where as non-Muslims we could not get into, and to eat at a restaurant above the square.
Mint tea. That is all you need to know when asking for a drink in Morocco. Okay maybe not but I love mint tea and Moroccan mint tea is divine. With your mint tea you’re going to need some traditional Moroccan food including tagine and couscous. The Jemaa el-Fnaa is a great place to try local dishes and to experience Moroccan flavors with its many food stands and restaurants.
The generosity of Moroccans is clear. Our hosts mother decided that she would cook traditional couscous with mint tea and other Moroccan sides because she wanted us to experience authentic Moroccan cooking. Eating at a table in Morocco is a little different from the States. We sat on the floor on some cushions and the table was pretty low. Everybody shared what was on the table, a communal experience.
We were also brought to the Menara Gardens, located near the airport. They offer great views of the Atlas mountains on a clear day but to me it felt more like a pavilion with a square of water in the middle. There was a legend that this is where a Sultan drowned some guests he had over but who knows if that is true. I didn’t find it too exciting but there were some highlights like olive trees, and historic buildings.
We then went to the souks and believe me, you need to draw some cash before you enter. Preferably get smaller denominations at a bank so you can barter properly with the shop owners. And you will need to barter and do it properly. The first price they offer is usually too high and you’re expected to counter offer with a lower bid. You’ll meet in the middle with them.
I ended up getting a camel bag, scarves, tea sets and Moroccan glassware. It was a lot when I think about it but I believe I got a great deal on all of them; partly because I knew some French and I also because I wasn’t willing to take anything that was deemed too high. The souks sale all types of foods, spices, lots of tacky crap but also lots of authentic Moroccan things that you would never find anywhere else. Go in and take a lap before you commit in buying anything.
They will try to get you to buy anything. It’s polite to say no and keep walking or just the usual “just looking.” They won’t back down so you just keep moving along until something spots your eyes. They will also invite you into their stores but sometimes it’s not a good idea since they will try to keep you there as long as possible. It’s all part of the experience so there is no need to become flustered. Men usually get a better deal (sorry ladies) but that is just how the society operates.
Our group also experienced doing non touristy things like talking to a Moroccan classroom. I happened to be chosen to talk about dating rituals back in the States. Openly gay when I wondered what I would say if they asked me about my dating life back in the States. They actually did and I answered that I was gay, which some of them knew, and they didn’t respond horribly at all.
Perhaps some were surprised and I was surprised that they were even asking the question but most took it well. Morocco is a socially liberal for being a Muslim country but it’s sad to say that the majority don’t support gays and gay acts are still an offense. However I have heard that there is a visible gay minority in Marrakesh but they tread carefully. Morocco is somewhat hypocritical because the youth still date and break other Islāmic laws, yet homosexuality is deemed too sinful.
However, Morocco is a great travel destination that has just the right amount of exotic allure with the pleasantries of the western world. Its unexpected yet expected all at the same time. The people speak both Arabic and French, they are somewhat sexist and pushy yet one of the most liberal Muslim countries. The colors of Morocco are stunning which is reason enough to pack your backs. If you’re hesitating about traveling to Morocco, don’t. It’s a truly remarkable place and I can’t wait to discover more of its cities.
images by: shawnvoyage
